Friday, July 10, 2015
Stillwaters run deep!
Tuesday, June 30th, 2015. After lunch we headed east on scenic Route 50 and cruised along the shores of Blue Mesa Reservoir. It was as beautiful an area as its name. There are several campgrounds around here as well but onward we went. Climbing and curving we reached Monarch Pass, our first of 5 Continental Divide Crossings in about 48 hours. There are several ski areas around in the Rocky Mountains and the slopes are quite steep. I've never had the pleasure of skiing on their soft powdery snow. But imagine it's a challenge! At the junction of 50 and 285 in Poncha Springs we stopped at an interagency information center and again picked up a BLM (Bureau of Land Management) map of the area. We headed north on Route 285 to about 1/2 mile past Mile Post 136 and turned right at a BLM sign for Hecla Jct Rec. Site. After a mile or two we saw the BLM sign and started climbing a hill. At the top on our right was a plywood sign with "Dan's Free Camping". The only requirement was "No Fires!" That is easy enough to respect. We entered a dirt round-about- parking area and chose a level sight along one side. There were two other groups here, and a young woman and her dog. She said that she'd been coming here for 17 years and that the other group of tenters were part of the local rafting guides and would probably come in later. They were quite when they did, I'm sure exhausted from their daily workout!
We had a relatively quiet night and left about 8 am at the same time as the woman. In an hour or so we crossed Hoosier Pass, elevation 11,539 feet and back down the other side to Route 9 and Breckenridge. Breckenridge is a lovely ski resort town and has lots of interesting historical buildings and current shops. I was able to find the perfect rain-gear and we stopped at a coffee and pastry shop. We strolled along Main Street for a while then continued on our way and turned on a side route along the east side of Dillon Reservoir. This dropped us onto Route 6 taking us through Loveland Pass, elevation 11,990 feet. Bob climbed the 45 stairs up the hillside across the parking area and we watched as a couple of skiers did the same then swooshed down what remained of the winter snow. The can claim having skiied in July!
We Continued down to Route 70 and noticed before we headed East on it that if we went West we would have traveled through a long tunnel on the Main Interstate! Somewhere in that direction is a gorgeous hike to Hidden Lake. We will have to research that when we return. But we headed east a short ways (about 3 exits) to Route 40 North as the heavens poured rain upon us.
We have had it pretty dry all along and this was a "free truck wash!" It even cleaned the red dust from our tire rims that accumulated back in Valley of the Gods. We stopped at a picnic pull off and had our lunch and then continued on after the rain ended.
We crossed the continental divide again but now through Berthoud Pass, elevation 13,315 and hoped we would find our next camp at much lower elevation. Route 40 took us to Granby where we picked up Route 34 which would take us all the way through Rocky Mountain NP. Just before the NP lands we were in and out of National Forest areas and along a couple of large lakes. On the shores of one we chose to stop at Stillwater Campground for the night. We found a lovely spot that had it's fire ring and picnic table just a few steps from the water. It is the perfect spot for kayacks, canoes, sailboats and even motor boats were anchored around the bend. Several campers were here early to get a great view of the fireworks display that would be just across the lake in a couple of days.
I wish I could say we had a quiet night, but a "not-so-nice" woman and her son arrived after midnight and parked about 2 feet from my window. Granted we had chosen a twin site but she was local and surely could have come in earlier. At 8 AM she decided to turn on her smelly engine to "charge her batteries!" and gassed me out. I walked off for 20 minutes then having to break camp asked if she could kindly shut it off. Thankfully she did!
We boogied out and hit the dump-station and took on clear mountain water for the remainder of our trip. After stopping at the National Park's gate for a map and info we cruised along the route and stopped at the lovely scenic viewpoints. Again we crossed the Continental Divide and saw a small group of Marmots frolicking on a large old snow patch. Near a peak on the road we came across a herd of elk making their way across. We got to stop and enjoy their crossing. At another stop we hiked in a ways and viewed the many beautiful alpine blossoms, I was able to count 13 different kinds. At one of the forks in the route we took Route 36 and stopped at the other main visitor center before exiting the park. In Estes Park we spotted yet another brewery and stopped to taste their sampler. This one had "free samples!" So we picked up a mixed six-pack of some of our favorites. Then headed to the parking lot for our lunch.
There was a go-cart race track just beyond the lot and several activities for kids of all ages. We headed out and tried to avoid the tourist packed main street and turned south on Route 7 a scenic and leisurely trek down to Route 72 which brought us into Arvada and where both Paul and Becca live with their mates.
We are spending just over a week relaxing with them, saw the fireworks just steps from Paul's patio while sitting in the back of his pick up truck. They were set off just up the road and we had a perfect line of sight at the spectacular display. Wednesday night after a 2 hour rain delay we were able to take in the entire Rocky's and LA baseball game. It was a close one but the hometeam lost. We watched the first half from "The Rooftop" and the rest of the game at field level along the first base line. Justin got the seats and parking all arranged ahead for us. We had a great time! Tonight we are camping together at Stanley Lake just 2 minutes from Paul's work and 20 minutes or so from both their homes.
Monday morning hopefully before the Denver traffic bogs down the highway we will head East to Alabama first to meet up again with Dave Hoyt and his lovely wife before pushing North to New England!
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
Thursday, July 9, 2015
Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP
Sunday, June 28th, 2015. We left Mesa Verde NP early in the morning and headed to Durango for me to reach the Kingdom Hall for my meeting. We stocked up at the Walmart then headed north on Route 550. We stopped for lunch and a walking excursion through the rustic town of Silverton, CO. There is a historic narrow guage railroad that runs from Silverton to Durango and back. There were a couple of breweries there as well and we checked out the Avalanche Brewery. The sampler was displayed as ski boots on a downhill ski and was very good. Bob had a wonderful soup as well as the best cornbread (gluten-free) that I have ever tasted. I'm still trying to get the recipe which is supposed to be on their website.
From there we continued north on Route 550. It was very curvy and as always climbing up and down the mountains.
There were few guardrails and you had to be on constant guard for danger. It is best not to be trailing anything around the tight S-turns some of which had speed limits of 10, 15, 20, 25 and 30 mph depending on the curve. There were several mining towns that boomed and a few of the mines are still working today.
One feature on the road was a snow slide tunnel built into the side of one of the mountains. It provides some safety in a high frequency avalanche zone. We paused at a few roadside pull-offs to enjoy the scenery safely. As evening wore on, we tired and sought out a place to spend the night.
We stopped at a private campground just south of Ridgeway, CO. On Monday morning we only had about 5 miles to go to Ridgeway, then headed west on Route 62 through the Dallas Divide at 8970 foot elevation. Then Right on Route 145 towards Telluride. We headed all the way to the historic end of town and found parking on a side street near the corner of Smugglers Brewery. We made a note to return for lunch after exploring the ski villages at both ends of the Scenic Tram. The rides are free all summer! With all the shops and restaurants open for the tourists and flowers blooming everywhere it is quite a colorful and exciting place to visit. We had 3 hours parking on our meter and returned back to the Brewery in time to have lunch and try their very tasty sampler. We were able to fill 3 of our half growlers and stick them in our fridge for our visit with the kids.
We returned by the route we came and passed North through Ridgeway to Montrose and then East on Route 50 about 10 miles or so to the turn off for Black Canyon of the Gunnison NP. We headed straight to the fee booth. Free admission again with our Senior Access Pass. With the Ranger's direction we headed straight to the campground and found a nice site with electric hookup. It being warm the A/C was helpful. As we pulled in and leveled two mule deer walked through the brush on one side and one bedded down for a spell. They really are not afraid of humans here except for an a female protecting her young from a nosy dog, we found out. We were able to attend the evening Ranger talk on Wildlife in the Park. During the talk one mule deer grazed behind us in the lush grass just a few feet away.
Tuesday morning we drove through the scenic drive along the South Rim Road. There is also another section along the North Rim which is lesser traveled and may be gravel, it is closed in the winter. Our first view of Black Canyon as at Tomichi Point and it is very impressive. There is actually a trail from the campground through this point that heads to the visitors center. It appears to cling to the steep sides of the canyon at some points and I was glad we drove. As we left this spot we actually followed another vehicle and missed the Visitor's Center. It's sign was hidden in overgrowth. So we decided we'd hit it on the way back. It being early morning it was awe inspiring to view the canyon as the morning sun's rays were trying to illuminate the canyon valley below. In many places the sun does not reach! As far as canyons go, "Some are longer, some are deeper, some are narrower, and a few have walls as steep," writes geologist Wallace Hansen. "But no other canyon in North America combines the depth, narrowness, sheerness and somber countenance of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison." In just 48 miles in the Black Canyon the Gunnison River loses more elevation than the 1,500 miles of the Mississippi River does from Minnesota to the Gulf of Mexico. The power of the fast falling enables the river to erode tough rock and created this landscape before us.
The canyon has been a mighty barrier to humans from time immemorial. Only its rims, never the gorge, show evidence of human occupation - not even the Ute Indians living in the area since written history began No early Spanish explorers to the Southwest reported seeing the canyon. The expedition led by Capt. John W. Gunnison, whose name was given to the river bypassed the gorge in its search for a river crossing. Back at the Visitor's Center we learned more about how it was eventually surveyed by some very courageous and daring men that somehow survived their journey down the river on a rubber mattress! There is quite a lot of history here as well, especially in regards to the 5.8 mile Gunnison Diversion Tunnel, begun in 1905 through the rocky mountain walls to bring fresh pure water to the farmers in the region. Lobbying began in the 1930's and in 1933 it was proclaimed a National Monument. Congress made it a national park in 1999,and the park now contains 14 miles of the canyon's total 48 mile length. Congress has also designated the park lands below the canyon rims for additional protection within the National Wilderness Preservation System.
It is such a beautiful place to hike the rims and glimpse the river far below. We would love to return and take the water tour near the reservoir and dam leading into the canyon, that also includes the diversion tunnel.
The Gunnison River is extremely dangerous due to difficult rapids and portages. Even well-prepared kayakers will find the canyon challenging. The river is classified as Class V to Unnavigable. Neither of us are up for that. We did enjoy hiking to the vantage points including the furthest, Warner Point and chatting with 2 other couples doing the same as we went driving along the South Rim. It was a very intimate way to view the canyon, far from the crowds.
After eating our lunch in the last parking area, and trading camping tips with one of the couples we began our exit out of the park ending at the Visitor Center. (the reverse of our usual routine!)
Then back onto Route 50 East we continued.
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
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