May 10th thru 14th

After our great hike overlooking Pueblo Bonito we had a quick lunch then headed down the 17 miles out of Chaco Canyon area (mostly unpaved but quite passable) back to Route 550 North.

We gassed up in Bloomfield then headed west on Route 64 West. This is a very scenic stretch of highway and we saw in the distance Shiprock mountain as we approached the town of the same name. Crossing the Arizona state line we came to Teec Nos Pos a town often mentioned in Tony Hillerman's novels. Bob is currently reading one from his daughter Anne Hillerman, Spider Woman's Daughter.

We took the short side trip North on Route 160 to New Mexico again about 6 miles or so and reached the "4 Corners Monument". It has been relocated since Bob last visit some 40 years ago! After government geographical surveys discovered it was not correctly placed. It was off by about 16 miles. The new location is definitely in Native Indian Territory. Complete with the Nations flags and flanked by Native vendors hawking their wares from rugs, pottery to jewelry. We returned back to Route 160 West and through Mexican Waters where we picked up Route 191 South. Very nice newly repaved 2-lane highway. We headed down to Chinle where the locals have just build a new Kingdom Hall! Unfortunately our stay is between meetings and I didn't get to meet the local brothers and sisters.

We camped in the Canyon De Chelly (pronounced "d'shay") State Park. It is concessioned out to natives and was only $14/night with electric. A large sign prohibits hawkers and solicitors yet each night around dusk someone would knock on the camper door and try to sell their wares. There is a very high percentage of unemployment in the Indian Nations so tourism and crafts are their major source of providing for their means.

On our fist full day we explored the south rim of the canyons, hiking to the bottom in the only place allowed without a guide. We checked out the guided horse trail riding (native guides) and will consider that again on a return trip if possible. There are several stops at overlooks that we made and at each one there were a few native vendors with quite interesting crafts. They were always ready to share their history and the meanings in their arts. It was easy to imagine living here and farming in the fertile land strips along the river at the canyon floor. And trying to make a defense against raiding parties of Indians, Spaniards and Soldiers.

The second day we skirted around the north rim and headed over to Window Rock. Lovely scenic views all along. (we dipped across the state line twice) Window Rock is the capitol of the Navajo Nation and has all of their government buildings here. We headed to Gallup NM so I could visit a good dentist there, and we were quickly on our way West on I-40 back into AZ. At the welcome center just over the line we picked up more local information.

We headed down Route 40 to the exit for Petrified Forest National Monument. There is no camping in this park, but the ranger told us that the "Rock Forest and Crystal Forest" owners allow camping in their lots at the end of the parks 28 mile road. And so we drove south down the roadway stopping at about half of the stops/pulloffs along the way on this cloudy afternoon. We hoped the sun would be out for better picture taking the next day and it was. The "Crystal Forest" camp site appears to have been used as a private campground with electric available. But as the two shops (across the road from each other) were closed we could not inquire about electric. There were a few other campers there so we made ourselves at home. I sure would have loved to look into the shops as they had amazing gems visible from the windows. Even the exterior walls were decorated with colorful gems and pieces of petrified wood. The Petrified Forest Park drive opens at 7 AM and we were up early. Sadly the shops again were not open, or we would have purchased a piece of petrified wood! There is no allowance for picking up such splinters or rocks in the National Park. Sorry Christopher, I couldn't get you a piece!

We re-entered the park and stopped at the visitors center at this end (free admissions again with our National Parks senior access pass) and hiked some of the trails at this end. The sun was out and the air was crisp but refreshing with a light breeze. It is truly amazing to see so many large logs of petrified wood lying along the hills of a an ancient river bed. It was good to learn the history of it's discovery and tales of "harvesting". Some used dynamite to break apart logs in order to find gems such as amber and amethyst. We are grateful for the acts of President Roosevelt and many others to protect these natural resources. We hiked up to the Agate House, a reconstructed pueblo dwelling made with chunks of Petrified logs. Very beautiful and strong! After 5 hours of heading back up the Park Road we emerged and headed east on I-40 then North on Route 191 toward Chambers. Our propane regulator was malfunctioning and we filled a tank in the Navajo Town of Klagetoh ($22/tank ful!) Gas prices started to climb too from $2.69 to $2.99/gal. We gassed up in Ganado and headed through and around the three mesas of Hopi Tribal Nation to Tuba City. It is amazing to see Hopi Homes constructed on top of one of the mesas overlooking Shongopovi. Then we turned south on Route 89 and stopped at the Cameron Trading Post for the night. You can not free "dry-camp" roadside in any of the Indian Territories. So for about $25/night we had electric again. A warm and pleasant nights rest before we enter the Grand Canyon.

"Going Places with Smiling Faces"