Sunday, May 18, 2014
Glacier NP and dry camping in Montana
Definately off the grid! We have been spending all our nights in the camper "dry camping" and on Friday spent the day in Glacier. We did some small hiking along Cedar Creek Trail in the Avalanche Lake area. It is as far north from the western glacier gate that you can drive on the "going-to-the-sun" road. We thought about the hike to Avalanche Lake but as it was getting late we decided to return the next morning to do that one. We took lots of pictures, and have found my camera to be "exhausted" at times. Missed a few but have etched those in the far reaches of my mind.
We drove out of the park for the afternoon up the west side to Polebridge,MT and stopped in to visit with John and Joyce, (who are partnered with Bob and Cathy at the Northern Lights Saloon and Cafe) only to find they won't be opening for the season until next Friday! Darn! However the building next door is the Mercantile and that opened this week! It is celebrating it's 100th anniversary this year. The Saloon was the original homestead of the owners and it is just a couple of years older. A genuine log cabin and a beautiful rustic bar. It is reputed to have wonderful food and beer. My son, Aaron also totes the Kettle brewery's local Cold Smoke beer and I had 2 at the Moose Saloon and Pizza bar down in Kalispell. It too is very rustic but the food and beer were great! Thanks for the tips Aaron.
John clued us into camping for the night 1 mile north of the saloon at the edge of the river next to the bridge leading back into Glacier
Since it was early (around 4 PM) we drove the recommended 6 more miles north into Round Prairie and view the wildlife. We saw several white tailed deer and 3 elk. Several birds and gophers. We had to stop when we entered the forest again with a gate across the dirt road. Closed for the season still, and only 22 miles or so from the Canadian Border.
We returned the way we came and passed out of the park gate over the bridge and camped at the primitive site along the river. Free!
It rained lightly for a short spell. (we have had just wonderful weather, even a little snow is refreshing!) In view of the snow covered mountains across the river we also saw the muted colors of the sun setting below the clouds. It remained softly colorful well past 9:30 PM. We are at the western edges of the Mountain Time Zone. During our travels up through Canada we will again cross back over the Continental Divide and time zones twice before settling into the Pacific Time Zone in Alaska. We were nearly alone in this spot as after the rains we noticed a lone woman parked a bit away and perched her tarp and hammock sleeping bag under it for the night and enjoyed her campfire. She was deeply asleep when we quietly pulled out at 8 AM to enjoy fresh brewed coffee and warm pastry at the "Merc"
Off we went back down the gravel road towards the Park (half of which is paved and in very good condition) All along the way we viewed the amazing views which had opened up in this forest as it had "suffered" from a devastating fire in 2001. The area is now covered in many dry tall pine poles(former trees) and rich green new growth trees about 5 to 6 feet tall. With all the signs of burnt vegetation I kept thinking I could see a bear here or there but none were apparent.
We drove along the east side of Lake McDonald again towards Avalanche Creek and Lake areas. The lake now showed a mirror image of the mountains and tree stubbled slopes as the water was smooth as glass without much of a breeze. We gathered our gear for the climb/hike uptrail which included bear spray, and poles and headed off on the 2 miles to Avalanche Lake. It was a fairly easy climb and children also did the trail. There was a glacial stream with high stone curves and rushing cold waters. Patches with emerald green moss covered stones and fallen trees. It was quite apparent where the more recent avalanches were as we passed along. There was still some snow and ice nearer to the lake itself but with care it was a very doable climb. When we reached the lake there were some log benches. (the park is very well maintained) We sat and ate our snack of granola and water and took out the binoculars. (camera was exhausted here!) and viewed several white mountain sheep, one with a small young one!(I have a pic from the Boone and Crockett Club we toured I'll slip in here as it will be clearer than what I would have taken if my camera had "juice")
Suddenly we heard an avalanche!!! but all eyes were on the mountain (there were 4 or 5 other small group/families there at the same time as us) and we discerned that the slide was just on the other side of the peaks we were in the basin of. I thought of the Glacier Park snow plows on the other side and hoped they too were safe!
After returning down the 2 miles back to our camper we had a light lunch and walked along the river. I spotted 2 fore-paws from a former snowshoe hare. All that remained of it. It is a wild world we live in. There are Bear warnings all around and we keep on the alert. We drove south along Lake McDonald again and back up the west side. Checked out what was available for camping in the park and as it was $20/night, primative and not any sights were available on the water, we again headed out of the park. We came about half way up towards Polebridge again and turned west towards Big Creek USDA National Forest land and got the senior rate discount/(national pass) and were able to camp along the river (Big Creek) for $7/night. It was very peaceful. Lots of track viewing along the river, including some recent deer, geese and small birds. We spotted 2 ducks floating in the water heading downstream at about 30 mph with the current. They looked like they were enjoying the ride!
This morning we headed down the half gravel road to Columbia Falls and gassed up. We headed west again into Whitefish and I found the local Kingdom Hall just in time for Sunday Meeting. Wonderful people, and great topic for discussion. Very uplifting.
Just around the bend south of that is the Whitefish Lake State Park and we were able to get a night here for $23 plus $5 for firewood. It sits on the lake and we ate lunch at the beach overlooking the ski area on the opposite side.
Thunder!!! is very loud when you are in the mountains and there are several around us. A small shower cleansed the dust (we do need a good hosing down soon) from the air and this spot has a lot of smooth pavement and level sights. There is a railway on the western edge and frequent short trains whistle as they pass by. Not an issue but nice to know about.
Tomorrow we will be heading north into Canada and will have to wait to publish when I have wifi available again.
Wishing you all are well and enjoying your days too!
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Great reading! I can literally visualize your travels. Are you heading north up 93 into Canada or heading west to the coast on route 20 and then north? Now the suspense will be killing me! I am following along on the Walmart Atlas and comparing our route to AK with yours. Dry camping with an occasional campground is my type adventure! Remember town libraries, coffee shops and of course McDonald's for WiFi. Safe Travels!!
ReplyDeleteLOL! We just decided to head north up 93 for the next leg into Canada, to visit Banff and Jasper areas spending 3 days or so in that area. Thanks for the tip for WiFi! I needed it.
ReplyDeleteAfter that we will have to decide which route we will head up from there, either westerly or north. Bob told me to cut that post down a bit, and I did... a little. But having so much to say and no internet for a few days I was chomping at the bit! ;-)
Upon further traveling. I realized that what I saw on the slopes of Avalanche Creek near Avalanche lake were very white and fluffy mountain goats, one with this springs baby. I didn't get a good look at horns at that time as they were facing away and grazing somehow on the "rock". Hard to imagine food sources up there, and I'm told with the climate changes the animals are under stress for there are smaller areas for the food chain partners to live in.
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