Tuesday, June 30, 2015
Mesa Verde NP
June 24 thru 28th, 2015. Thursday afternoon through Sunday morning we saw all that we could in Mesa Verde. We had no problem getting a first come first serve campsite in the last loop, Apache. There were other sites in some of the loops but the few that had electric hookups were booked. They do take reservations for these, but we didn't know for sure when we would arrive. The days were quite warm in the 90's but the evenings began to cool after the sun set and we were comfortable. Even used a blanket on two of the mornings in the 60's.
We began getting information in the visitor's center, with their little newspaper and map. And since it was best to do so now, we purchased ranger guided tour tickets for the last tour of the day at Cliff Palace for this afternoon and Balcony House for Friday morning. On Friday we decided to stay another night and Purchased tour tickets for Long House for Saturday as well.
Mesa Verde NP was created in 1906 and will begin it's centennial soon. It was created to preserve the archeological heritage of the Ancestral Pueblo people, both atop the mesas and in the cliff dwellings below. The park includes over 4,500 archeological sites; only 600 are cliff dwellings and only a few are accessible/viewable. The campground is about 4 miles into the park. Then heading south on the North Rim we head through a tunnel and start climbing up the mesa. I think we were pretty much at about 8,000 feet elevation most of the time.
One of the park rangers convinced us to get tickets to the last tour of the day at Cliff Palace. It involved climbing up a very high and straight ladder and guess who got to go first! "Feet follow Hands" I kept repeating and I surprised myself. I made it up! It was well worth the extra effort. There is so much to learn at these sites about the Ancient Pueblo Peoples who lived in this area centuries ago.
Through very hard labor with hand made tools from stone and wood they built these impressive dwellings. They farmed the rich fertile soil of the mesa tops and hunted and gathered pinyon nuts and native plants as well. Some of the crops they grew were corn, beans, squash and pumpkins. They devised check dam methods to trap water and soil and had to endure hard times of drought as well. They also socialized with their neighbors and gathered at some of these larger sites for trade and ceremonies (such as singing and dancing, and religious events.)
They were quite skillful as basket-weavers, potters and stone masonry as is evident by what they left behind.
For unknown reasons they left the area, and moved further south and east, although a 23 year drought may have been a contributing factor. Today the Hopi of Northern Arizona and the people of the Zuni, Laguna, Acoma and the pueblos along the Rio Grande trace their ancestry to these peoples.
In the late afternoons as the heat of the day and lots of hiking tired us out, we returned to our campsite and prepared our suppers. At 9 PM the first two nights we headed up to the nearby Amphitheater to hear a Ranger Talk.
On Friday we checked out Balcony House (ranger guided) and Spruce Tree House (self guided). And did some short hikes to Mesa Top remains of Pit houses and villages. All had kivas as a similar feature.
Saturday we headed down the Wetherill Mesa which is a different experience. It is on the "quieter side" of the park and only 1 in 15 visitors come over to this side.
Here we toured Step House and Long House. Long House (one of my favorites) is approximately equal in size to Cliff Palace, and fills an expansive 293 foot long sandstone alcove from end to end. There were several ladders to climb and descend here as well. It had about 150 rooms and 21 kivas and was inhabited by 150 to 175 people. Amazing stone and plaster work is evident. It has a large open space in the front area that is believed to have been used for large dances, drumming and singing activities. I can just picture it now as it might have been then.
Having enjoyed this lovely park we headed out Sunday morning towards Durango with hopes to return again someday.
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
Sunday, June 28, 2015
Movies made in Castle Rock Area
Wednesday, June 24th, 2015. We had a leisurely morning then headed out on Scenic Route 128 North from Moab. It follows the "calmer" section of the Colorado River above where it converges with the Green River. I believe that section of the convergence is known as the Cataract. This section was moving quite fast regardless and the water level was also higher than usual. Still there were plenty of passengers riding in large Adventure Tour rafts as well as floating downstream "cooling off" in the current sort of near the rafts. Some were holding onto the side cordage of the raft. It was quite hot, around 100 degrees so I'm sure the water felt cool. I would not be floating downstream on purpose at any rate!
There were a few kayakers and even a few paddle-boarders! I can't imagine what would happen if they fell off!
We headed up most of the route but turned back a few miles before we reached Route 70 at the site of the Dewey Bridge. Or what would have been the refurbished Dewey Bridge. It had quite a history of serving travelers from 1916 to 1986. In that year the new highway bridge replaced the aging structure. Through the local Historic Preservation's fundraising it was restored at great expense and rededicated in May of 2000. It appeared burned and only supporting wiring remained. We later learned that an unsupervised 7 year old playing with
fire accidentally burned the wooden bridge down. It was significant for its engineering accomplishment. It was Utah's longest suspension bridge (and longest clear span bridge) and at the time of its construction was the 2nd longest suspension bridge west of the Mississippi. In it's prime it was designed to support the weight of 6 horses, 3 wagons and 9,000 lbs of freight.
We slowly made our way back down the valley and stopped at one of two large ranches along the way. The Castle Creek Winery was closest to the road and we stopped and had samples. Then we headed on down the short drive into the Red Cliffs Lodge and checked it out. It had many large cabins for rent which we suspect would be filled from time to time with crews from movie-makers. There is a nice Movie Museum here with lots of memorabilia from many movies. Several big named movies were filmed here as well as TV Commercials, Ads and Music Videos. The Moab to Monument Valley area has been a popular filming location since early in the 20th century, offering dramatic western landscape for such popular John Wayne classics as Stagecoach, Wagon Mastered, Rio Grande and The Commancheros. I was surprised to learn that Thelma And Louise and Back to the Future II and III were also filmed here. The Lone Ranger Legend (as well as the newer one with Johnny Depp) and many others too including one of my favorite comedies, City Slickers II.
The views from their restaurant Cowboy Grill make a lovely setting and they are well known for their excellent Breakfast and Lunch Buffets. Their dinner entrees are enticing but more pricey. We had passed John Waynes' Cabin somewhere on our journey and we are told he stayed there while shooting some of these films.
You can even ride on the range on horseback from here! It would make a lovely return visit in the future.
Near the junction of Routes 128 and 191 there is an extensive bike path with a large bridge over the Colorado River and safe trails along the river and highways as well, leading all the way up to Arches NP and beyond.
Back to Moab we returned just in time to enjoy a delicious dinner at Fiesta Mexican Restaurant.
After restocking our supplies at City Market (best value in area) and refilling the gas tank we returned to camp the Oasis. We sure appreciated the A/C as temps reached 102 today!
On Thursday the 25th, we enjoyed a hearty french toast breakfast and caught up on the blogs a little, then showered and hit the road towards Mesa Verde. We headed South on Route 191 to Monticello, UT then East on 491 into Colorado, through Cortez's construction we picked up Route 160 East. We lunched in a rest stop
between Cortez and entering Mesa Verde National Park.
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
Thursday, June 25, 2015
Canyonlands; Needles, Island in the Sky, Arches and Moab, UT
Sunday, June 21st, 2015. From Devil's Canyon it was about a 10 mile ride to Monticello - where we waited about 1/2 hour for the visitor's center to open. We were productive during that time publishing 1 blog and finding our local bank. The visitor's center was conveniently located on the corner of what would be our short-cut to connect with Route 211 which leads straight up to the Needles section of Canyonlands NP.
After checking in at the Visitor's Center we headed for Squaw Flat Campground and at the end of Loop A tucked into a site with some trees and the rock formation at it's western edge. We hoped for some cooling shade later in the day. As the hot afternoon wore on the temps moved higher into the upper 90's. We hunkered down for the afternoon and kept hydrated and as cool as possible. At 6:30 PM we headed to the Cave Spring Trail passing the Woodenshoe Stone Arch formation glowing high on a ridge in the sunlight. This loop trail leads to a historic cowboy camp and rock art tucked under the hanging ledges of smooth granite then ascends 2 wooden ladders to an overlook with canyon views. We returned near to our campsite and parked at the location on Loop A where the sunset Ranger Program would be held. We had just enough time for a cold supper complete with a Klondike Bar to keep us cool. The talk was centered on pre-historic formations and his interpretations of living creatures of that era.
We returned to our campsite and tried to sleep in the heat.
On Monday morning we rose at sunrise and broke camp. Heading straight out without hot coffee, east on Route 211 through lovely canyon ranch lands to Route 191 North to Moab. The Maverick Gas station south of town had an RV dump station as well. Then we hit the McDonald's for coffee and breakfast sandwiches.
Just about 5 miles north of Moab, we entered Arches NP and stopped at the Visitor's Center for a great film "Windows of Time". (which was not available for purchase yet.) It was a beautiful film and portrayed the life cycles of these stone arches. We did a driving tour in A/C admiring the stone formations.
Keeping hydrated we did manage several short hikes here. The first was out to North and South Window (arches) and then across the parking area west to Double Arch. It is amazing how much freedom some children are given, as we saw a few hike up under the formations into areas that are "off-limits".
The next hike was out to Upper Delicate Arch Viewpoint. Followed by our surprise favorite, a sandy hike through a narrow gap in the sand to Sand Dune Arch! We ate our lunch in the picnic loop at Devil's Garden then retraced the scenic drive back to the park exit.
We returned to Moab and found an oasis. Riverside Oasis Campground at the North end of town with mature trees shading most all of the sites we discovered that they'd just had a cancellation and it was for a short site just a perfect fit for us.
We were told by one of the employees who did lots of maintance on the green grass here that next year there would be a hotel on this site. We certainly enjoyed it with A/C, Cable TV, laundry on site and free showers. ($44.80/night) We were especially grateful for that A/C as the temps now maintained triple digits everyday. We enjoyed a much more comfortable nights sleep!
June 23rd, We headed out in the morning to Canyonlands Northern section, Island-In-The-Sky. There is a turn-off to Dead Horse SP (we didn't take) just North of the NP which has a campground with electric hookups but they were full. Here there is a legend of how cowboys used to trap and catch wild horses in this canyon area. Once, a band of horses died of thirst while trapped here 1,100 feet above the flowing waters of the Colorado River Below.
Views from Island-In-The-Sky reach from the depths of the Green and Colorado Rivers to the mountain tops and above. Across canyon after canyon they stretch to the horizon 100 miles distant. It is a broad mesa wedged between the Green and the Colorado, it's Canyonland creates an observation tower. You can see The Maze and The Needles formations in the distance.
We hiked the short trail to Mesa Arch - which offered spectacular views of the canyon lands beyond.
We retraced our drive back to Moab and headed straight to Moab Brewery. Utah's regulations are that all drafts must not exceed 3.2 % Abv. We found their sampler to be refreshing yet a little lacking. The seasonal Nut Brown stood out for me. Bob bought a bottle of their Black IPA which did have the hoppy notes that he so loves and was not as restricted by Abv values.
They also had 25 cent wings and we sampled 4 flavors of those!
Back to the campground to catch up on the blog and some TV and get another cooler nights rest.
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
Wednesday, June 24, 2015
Exploring Monument Valley
Saturday, June 20th, 2015. We got up at 7 AM in the middle of the desert. No one for miles. The air was fresh and a pleasant 73 degrees. We were in the shade of a large butte a few hundred yards to our east. Making coffee and enjoying a breakfast at this spot was an easy decision.
After clean up we continued our trip around The Valley of the Gods Loop trail. This took about one hour with several stops for pictures and checking out the many blooming wildflowers. Bob was glad we were in a high clearance vehicle. While he didn't use the 4WD, the road was rough in many low spots where recent rain water traveled through the washes.
As we exited the loop trail back onto Route 261, we looked back at the sheer face of the Moki Dugway. We could not find any trace of the gravel road built into the cliff face. We were still in awe of this amazing place.
About one mile before our turn south onto Route 163 we took another detour. We turned right onto Road 316 for the 3-mile drive out to Goosenecks State Park. This park consists of a picnic area ($5 day use fee) or a camping use area(for $10 overnight fee). The park sits on a bluff about 1000 feet above the San Juan River. At this point the river makes multiple "Gooseneck" or 'S' turns through the canyon. This is one of the most impressive examples of an entrenched river meander in North America. At this point the river flows over six miles while advancing only 1.5 miles west toward Lake Powell.
As we were leaving the Park, Bob asked the ranger if the amount of greenery and wildflowers were normal for this time of year. He said the past 3 weeks had seen much more rainfall than normal. We were lucky to be here for the beautiful display of desert plant life.
Next we were off to Route 163 South to the Visitor Center at Monument Valley. Although the center was closed we visited several jewelry and gift shops housed at this complex of buildings.
Several of these shopkeepers mentioned that today at 1 pm across the road in the High School Gymnasium there was to be a Cree Family Pow-Wow. (It was actually a 2 day event!) In addition to the many drummers, singers and costumed dancers there would be authentic Navajo food for sale. We decided that this would be a more entertaining and authentic slice of Navajo Life than paying the $20 fee to get into the Navajo Tribal Park's Visitor's Center
Any doubts about outsiders being welcome were quickly put to rest. At the food booth out front, a very friendly Navajo gentleman was happy to answer any questions about food being served. Also I asked about taking pictures. He assured me that at most times pictures were no problem. Pictures of individuals in costume should be with permission. He explained in some detail how the event would progress into the late evening.
We enjoyed a Navajo Taco, then went in for the show. ($6 for me, and $3 for Senior Bob) Dozens of dancers were ready in full dress Dozens more were getting ready. Many had suitcases or large bags holding multiple costumes. Eight separate teams (families?) with six to eight drummers and singers were spread around the outer edge of the floor. These teams were taking turns chanting and drumming. I wish we understood the meanings behind the song and dance. They were quite impressive and very entertaining.
At 1 PM, the event began with the Grand Parade of the dancers and the steady drum beating and chanting of the singers. It was quite a sight as the dancers filled the gymnasium floor. I got a terrific video of the entire procession. We stayed for about 2 hours enjoying the constant flow of activity. Finally we decided we should head North and get closer to tomorrow's destination of Canyonlands NP.
We headed North on Route 163 then Route 191. Just below Monticello, is Devil's Canyon National Forest Service campground. It was 5 pm and the temp was 85 degrees. The campground had some shade trees too. This looked like a perfect place to spend a quiet evening outside relaxing. We had time to reflect on another active day full of pleasant surprises.
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
Natural Bridges, Moki Dugway and More!
Friday, June 19th, 2015. Today it was back on the road after 2 nights at Capitol Reef. Because days were now going consistently into the 90's, we were looking forward to a days drive with A/C.
To help get us off to an early start we decided we would just have to go back to the Gifford House one last time. Enjoying their brewed coffee, sharing a fresh baked cinnamon roll and picking up a peach pie for later would eliminate breakfast prep and clean up. What could be more logical?
We were anxious to get going. Park Rangers and other we had talked to about our route assured us it would be spectacular.
Out of the park we headed East on Route 24 to Hanksville. This leg was about 40 miles. Traffic was very light. It was easy to enjoy watching the hills, valleys and gorges roll by.
At Hanksville we turned South onto Route 95. This leg was about 95 miles to our next junction. Travel continued to be easy and the scenery just seemed to keep getting better. After about 45 miles we were amazed by the surrounding chocolate cliffs folding around our curving roadway. We were in the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area. We stopped at a large scenic overlook. The view was breathtaking. We were several thousand feet above the Colorado River. The river was quite wide at this point. To the Southwest the river had been dammed in the 1960's to form Lake Powell. The frontier town of Hite had once been on the banks of the river below. It was a casualty of the dam building.
We continued on feeling like we often did last year in Alaska. It just keeps getting better!
Just one mile before our next junction we decided to try the turn off to Natural Bridges National Monument. We discovered that this area was the first place in Utah designated as a National Monument. This site has a 9 - mile loop road overlooking a sandstone gorge which is home to three natural bridges and some well preserved ancient cliff dwellings. We spent about 2 1/2 hours exploring this area. It was very hot, but well worth the effort to walk the short trails to amazing overlooks.
After exiting the park we continued one mile down the road and turned South onto Route 261. In 26 miles this would bring us to Route 163 and on through Monument Valley. After about 23 miles of 55 mph driving Route 261 comes to a precipice. As the road turns to gravel, multiple signs warn of hairpin turns, 10% grades, and 5 to 15 mph speed limits.
We turned into the wide turn-out to stop and see what we were in for just before the road took a 90 degree turn to the left. This view was amazing.
We were at the top of a large bluff which dropped straight down 1100 feet! The valley floor was beautiful. Red sandstone monoliths and buttes dotted the visible landscape. This was the North-Eastern end of Monument Valley. The 2.2 mile looping drive down was carved into the face of the bluff. They call this the Moki Dugway. It was an experience not to be missed!
Once down we headed into Mexican Hat for Dinner. (A stone formation just north of town is named Mexican Hat as well.) At 98 degrees we were not up for supper chores. We had a good meal at a Navajo restaurant next to the bridge crossing the San Juan River. After dinner we took the 17 mile BLM loop road through The Valley of the Gods. This road started at it's eastern end on Route 163 about 10 miles north of Mexican Hat and it ends a mile or so from the base of Moki Dugway. We got an up close look at many sandstone monoliths.
Several turn-outs were available along this road for overnight camping. All the BLM asked for was no campfires and pack out all waste. We were alone in a most beautiful world. The night sky was incredible. The scent of fragrant spring night blooms descended upon us as we began to fall asleep. A perfect ending to a 'Top 10' day!
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
"Just have to see what is beyond the next curve!"
Capitol Reef National Park
June 17th through 19th, 2015. We spent 2 nights here in partial shade. The daytime temps are now into the mid 90's. Capitol Reef NP encompasses a giant buckle in Earth's crust that stretches across south-central Utah. This vast warping of rock, created 65 million years ago by the same great forces later uplifting the Colorado Plateau, is called the Waterpocket. It is an eroded jumble of colorful cliffs, massive domes, soaring spires, stark monoliths, twisting canyons and graceful arches. But the Waterpocket Fold country is more than this. It is also the free-flowing Fremont River and the big desert sky. It is cactus, jay, lizard, jackrabbit, juniper, columbine and deer. It is a place humans used for thousands of years, from early indigenous peoples to Mormon pioneers. It stretches 100 miles and beyond.
We explored the scenic drive south inside the park as far as we could drive with their oil and stone paving going on. It is a narrow, paved road that goes along the Capitol Reef's brilliantly colored towering cliffs. The Grand Wash is a gravel road that cars can drive, but we chose to head to the south point and were halted at Capitol Gorge Road. It is deep and twisting with water-carved sheer walled canyons. We had to walk it as it was quite washed out from the recent early rains. We managed to get about 2 miles down and back in the heat. Thankful for fudgecicles in our truck camper freezer! That and some ice cold ginger-ale make a great refreshing combo. We had hoped to make it to the "Tanks" which are occasionally water filled pot-holes but could not make that distance in this heat.
16 miles back up the scenic drive to the main campgrounds and picnic areas in the Fremont River area it is much greener lush with cottonwoods, walnut and fruit trees in the orchards and is a bit cooler. Apple, peach, cherry, pear, plum and apricot trees (almost 3,000 trees) grow in the Fruita orchards. Historic and heirloom varieties of some fruits are still here. You may pick and eat fruit free of charge while in the orchards. (when in harvest season) A nominal fee is charged for fruit you take with you.
Each morning we stopped at the Historic Gifford House, part museum filled with cultural exhibits and part country store featuring pioneer-era sales items and fresh homemade pies breads and brewed coffee. And during the days we were here fresh picked cherries packaged into small paper bags. They were delicious! We started with an Apple Pie, then on the next day Strawberry-Rhubarb and finally on the 3rd morning we bought a Peach Pie to go for later in the days travels. Thankfully they were small and just enough for sharing!
The 2 informative Ranger talks we sat in the cooler evening air at dusk to hear were on Geology and Wilderness. We were told the probable reason for the various sizes of boulders on the hillsides and mountain tops approaching this area on Route 12 and 24 was they were most likely formed by volcanic flow that smoothed over the surface at eruption but was broken up and tumbled through glaciation activity. It made the most sense.
To keep cool, we hiked a bit less and drove to the stopping points on Route 24 just east of the visitor's center. The petroglyphs were nearly in shade and easily accessible, as was the 1800's Fruita Schoolhouse, a restored and refurbished one-room school that was also used at the time as their church meeting house, and social center for dances and such.
We did manage to hike out near the Capitol Dome up to the Hickman Natural Bridge on the mesa above the highway. Capitol Dome can be seen looking to the east. It is a Navajo sandstone feature that was named for its resemblance to the US Capitol and inspired the park's name.
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!" and as Bob now says, "I've just got to see what's around the next bend!"
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