Monday, June 8, 2015
Driving down the Loneliest Road to Great Basin NP
Monday, June 8th, 2014 Yesterday we drove for 8 hours most of in on "The Loneliest Road" Route 50 in Nevada. Once we passed the town of Fallon which has a Naval Air Station (Population 8525) and the Stillwater Wildlife Management Area there were few if any populated areas on the whole trek. Two exceptions were Eureka (population 1628) and Ely (pronounced "Ellie", population 4049). There was a sign at one of the dirt roads leading off that read Duckwater 13 miles (population is 25 there).
There were only a handful of small ranches along the way with a few livestock. I saw 2 large golden eagles perched on sagebrush, I thought at first they were turkeys but I did get a good look at them. (no photos though)
Between Middlegate and Cold Springs we passed a Pony Express Station Site. It was impressive to learn so much about this daring enterprise which lasted only 18 months or so. It was cut short when the Telegraph wires were hung and dramatically increased the speed of Telecommunications for that time. We continued on down this Loneliest Road through the Great Basin region. Past "Mountains in a Sea of Sagebrush." This vast region gets its name for its lack of drainage. Its streams and rivers mostly find no outlet to the sea, and water collects in shallow salt lakes, marshes, and mud flats to evaporate in dry desert air. It's not just one but many basins, separated by mountain ranges roughly parallel, north to south, basin and range alternating in seemingly endless geographic rhythm. It encompasses nearly all of Nevada, the eastern border of California, western half of Utah, and portions of Oregon and Idaho. Eventually we came to the small town of Eureka.
Eureka began when prospectors found rich deposits of lead and silver there. It "Boomed" in the 1880's and had up to 16 smelters. Production began to fall off in 1883 and by 1891 it had closed. Hugh slag piles are at both ends of Main St.
We traveled through 9 mountain passes at elevations up to 7,539 feet. Mountain Ranges were along both sides of us with miles and miles of sage brush in between.
We went through Ely without stopping. The Northern Railway here is a "living museum" and a National Historic Landmark that operates historic trains. Theme rides range from Astronomy to kid friendly "Polar Express". It is also a haven for local artists. But it all looked closed up on this Sunday.
We turned off the road for about 8 miles into Cave Lake State Park and camped for the night at Elk Flats campground. ($17, with showers) But there were two picnic areas on the route out, one being only 2 or 3 miles further on 50 that would have been just as quiet for sleeping. There were even vault toilets there.
Today we had only about 1 1/2 hours to drive to the town of Baker, NV. We passed through only 2 more mountain passes at 7,733 feet and 7,136 feet then returned to the valley floor. We stopped at both visitor centers in the National Park and purchased tickets for the ranger guided tour of Lehman Caves. It was a fantastic 90 minute tour and showcased several shield type formations as well as 3 large "rooms". One which in the 1920's held dances with a band, and the Ely Elks Lodge meetings. Since the NP has been in control damage to the site has been greatly reduced. After our tour we drove up the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive to the Mather Overlook at 9,000 feet. We could have driven up to the end of the road at 10,000 feet, where there are a couple of groves of Bristlecone Pines, but decided instead to backtrack about 2 miles to make our camp for the night. We camped at Upper Lehman Creek. Historically we learned that after Gold was discovered 3 miles from here at Osceola Ditch the mining operation had tried to divert waters from this narrow creek to aid in extracting the gold. It proved too costly in this dry area but they were able to extract almost 2 million dollars worth in the process. Most of it by placer mining.
We have been carefully on the watch for wildlife, especially when hiking and walking the grounds. So I was happy to safely and successfully photograph a Rattlesnak which "Exhibited" tranquility and watchfulness as well!
Our campsite was alongside this babbling creek and we enjoyed a cool nights rest.
"Going Places With Smiling Faces!"
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