Friday, June 5, 2015

Mammoth Lake Region and Yosemite

Thursday, May 28th, 2015. We drove down from the White Mountains elevations of 8,200 feet to the valley floor and rejoined Route 395 heading North. We stopped in Bishop just a few days after their annual Mule Days. (Parades and rodeo events with mules honoring their historic past.) We stopped at Erick Schat's Bakkery. A Dutch Bakery that produces amazing breads and pastries. We purchased a few tasty items including a loaf of Sierra Nevada Mule Bread, a cross between Original Sheepherder, Sourdough, Crushed Wheat and Honi Squaw Breads. It was delicious. And the chocolate croissant we shared wasn't bad either! A small park across the street, next to the Information Center, was another lush green oasis in this area. There was a very large Olympic size swimming pool for the community and a local swim team as well as play spaces for children beside a cool stream. Several ducks were also enjoying the clear waters here. From there we headed up to the town of Mammoth Lakes stopping at their Welcome Center/ranger station. A Ranger there noticed Bob's Polebridge Montana T-Shirt and we struck up a conversation. She was raised there! It brought back pleasant memories.
She tipped us where to go in town for our banking and groceries. After lunch in the parking lot we headed over to Earthquake Fault. It's actually a fissure created by steaming magma about 700 years ago. (young geologically) Then we drove past Mammoth Mountain Ski Area and up to Minaret Vista for lovely mountain views. We are here just before the summer season begins and did not have to use the mandatory shuttle buses. (there is an exemption for campers and we were going to camp near the end of the road at Reds Meadows.)
Continuing on we re-entered National Park Lands and using our pass again, climbed through the mountain passes on very narrow roads paralleling Ansel Adams Wilderness lands to Devil's Postpile National Monument. Devil's Postpile is a unique geologic feature, formed by an eruption of basalt lava. This particular lava flow was ideal for column formation: It was thick with consistent mineral composition, and it cooled slowly and evenly, As the lava cooled it contracted and split into the symmetrical, vertical, hexagonal columns that constitute Devils Postpile. Fire and Ice, a glacial event occurred some 20,000 to 12,000 years ago as the ice overrode the fractured mass of lava. The moving ice carved away one side of the postpile, exposing a sheer wall of columns 60 feet high. Erosion and earthquakes later felled many columns that now lie fragmented on the talus slope below the postpile. We hiked out to the site following an easy trail along a swift flowing stream. It was very re-energizing. Then we continued about a mile more down the road to Reds Meadows Campground. Another quiet night. In the morning we awoke to 37 degrees and decided as we were going to drive out anyways, why not look for a nice hot breakfast and bottomless cups of coffee. We backtracked on Route 203 towards Mammoth Lakes(the town) and diverted north on Mammoth scenic loop road to June Lake.
At June Lake Junction we found what we were looking for and had a relaxed breakfast, then with cell phone signal available in the parking lot caught up with family a bit before heading north to Mono Lakes area. In 15 mile or so turned left on Route 120 toward Tuolumne Meadows. The visitor center there just opened today, but the large campgrounds did not. Still too wet due to snow melts. A few of the smaller campgrounds were going to possible open tomorrow, but we instead drove through the north section of the park and hoped to find a site below Hetch Hetchy.
The best overlook is at Olstead Point. Lovely vistas exposing the north view of Half Dome and other rugged large granite mountains. We actually exited the park north of Hodgdon Meadow then turned right off of Route 120 north on Evergreen Road. About 2 miles before reaching the small town of Mather, we secured a campsite at Dimond-O Campground. On National park lands (half price camping again) and took 1/2 of a double site. (there were only two sites left!) Then we headed out to the north to Hetch Hetchy.
Just a few miles north of Mather we re-entered Yosemite and the ranger there had to measure our width. Exactly 8 feet wide. Which is their cut-off. He did allow us to travel in up to the dam/reservoir but gave stern warnings to keep inside the narrow lane and avoid the overhanging rocks at the road sides.
There was a lot of history surrounding this reservoir and O'Shaughnessy Dam. There are two waterfalls on the opposite shore, one of which was barely wetting the rocks at this time of year, but the other lower one Wapama was flowing powerfully. John Muir and other preservationists had wished the valley remained untouched. But in 1906, an earthquake and fire devastated San Francisco, adding urgency and public sympathy to the search for an adequate water supply. Legislation was passed and after a time construction was completed in 1923. The final phase of raising the height of the dam was completed in 1938. Today the 117 Billion gallon reservoir supplies pristine drinking water to 2.4 million Bay Area residents and industrial users. It also supplies hydro-electric power generated by two plants downstream. The reservoir is 8 miles long and is the largest single body of water within the national park. After walking the top of the dam (you could also continue on through the tunnel in the mountain on the other side to several trails including to the bases of both waterfalls.) We headed back to our campsite for the night. After we had eaten our supper another couple also shared our (double) campsite for the night. We were all glad to find a safe and quiet place. "Going Places With Smiling Faces!"

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